Sunday, April 22, 2012

Good Morning Vietnam....

... the first week in Vietnam is already over and it kicked off quite "special".
My friend Chris, with whom I am traveling through all Vietnam, and I attempted to cross the border in Ratanakiri together with some of KYCs teachers who wanted to come with us for a weekend trip. Apparently only about 25 foreigners a year are crossing this border, so for the Vietnamese Border control, it was a very unusual process, especially as we "rocked up" without Vietnamese visas and only with invitation letters. After about 4 hours of discussion and waiting, Chris unfortunately was declined the visa as his invitation letter had been expired and I was let into the country. So we split for two days as I went on with the KYC teachers, while Chris was waiting for a new invitation letter in Ratanakiri.


Our first stop in Vietnam was Nha Trang, a very touristy and developed place with tons of tourists of whom 90% were Russian. But it was great to spend some last time with some dear Cambodian friends. After 4/5 days Chris and myself went then on up north the coast to and are now in Hoi An again a quite touristy place but nice.

The impressions so far from Vietnam ? It has a stunning coastline, some great food, people are very nice and helping (even though nowhere close to Cambodians) and Vietnamese people seem to not go out in the evenings so we are having very early nights here... which after 3 months in Ratanakiri is a bit disappointing, but I guess good for my marathon training, which is suffering anyway.

Enclosed some snapshots from Vietnam and soon some more. Also an entry from Chris, to mix this blog a bit up.

Cheers
Joe

Thursday, April 12, 2012

Way to fast over....


... that's the feeling I get when I think of leaving Banlung City to take on Vietnam. My time here has been very salutary and I enjoyed every bit of it:

- I realized how lucky I am, being in good health. Which will be a lesson for the future to better take care of it and not wasting it
- I learned how constantly friendly, helping, welcoming and honest people create such a nice atmosphere. There shouldn't be a reason not to try to be "Cambodian" every day.
- I meet a lot a interesting people here and made some good friends who truly broadened my horizon

- I ate delicious new food and at the same time so healthy. It is so easy to create a healthy and delicious diet for a healthier life. Nevertheless I still appreciate a proper steak at "Wolfgangs" in NYC with some Canadian sizzling-honey bacon as a starter :-)
- I had time to focus on my exercise regime - which itself gave me a lot a time reflecting on myself (trust me running around a lake 4 times a week for a total of 4-5 hours gives you a lot of time to think :-))

- I learned a lot about the Cambodian/Khmer culture, about South-East Asia and how Vietnam, Thailand, Laos and Cambodia all are connected to each other. 
- I certainly can now say after teaching in Ecuador and in Cambodia, that my patience level is not suitable for teaching and being a teacher will not be an option for me in the future. At the same time my respect for teachers has grown immensely (though I still think German teachers get to much time off :-P)
- I am truly thankful that I was given the opportunity to help some people here on the ground and make a change to their life. To give you an overview of what we achieved over the past 3 months:

- We got a staggering 13,000 US Dollar together to build 7 wells in indigenous communities, which gave over 4,000 people access to water. As well as the money will be used to build a small school in Cambodias "outback".

- Helped Rosica to get a majority of her hearing ability back and started to re-finance her hearing aid with the help of friends.
- Helped Sokhav to get a proper diagnose of his skin-problem, put a therapy together as well as set him up with the initial necessities.


- We financed Chanrath and Meraline, two children who were abandoned by their parents, their studies at Krou Yeung Center so that they can receive a proper education.



This all couldn't have been done without the financial support of (this is in no particular order): Anke, Sunjay, Linda, Joy, Stefanie, Franziska, Genovefa, my parents, my aunt, Ellisha, Andrew, Nayomi, Florian, Sue, Tim, Kayelyn, Andy, Matthew, Jimi, Sumit, Christopher, Rouven, Ting, Robert, Ruben, Ling and Malte.

 A big Thank You to all of you, you are grand !! 

I will write more about my the highlights here over the next weeks - but one thing is sure I will come back here in the future,  not just to see how the children here have grown up or meeting up with friends but also because it is such a peaceful and joyable place.

The enclosed pictures are from a splitter-bomb that was found in the backyard of our school... routine/daily reality to Cambodians - they didn't even "evacuate" the closest classrooms.
Joe

Wednesday, April 4, 2012

"Skin Cancer" or "We don't know what he has"....


.... those were the first comments I heard about Sokhav, a 6.5 year old student at Krou Yeung center with severe skin problems. He suffers from a "Elephant skin": thick and dry skin covering his body all over. 
The skin renews itself every 4-5 days for 3-4 days in a very painful process. This is only the first obvious symptoms you see, but he is also missing eye-lids as well as his ears are not properly developed. Having suffered my own bit of skin-problems when I was growing up (though nothing anywhere close to Sokhav) and knowing from that experience how hard a "abnormal" appearance can be on your self-esteem, Sokhav certainly became a case very close to my heart and I was determined to try to help him. The first thing that had to be done was to actually get a diagnose of what he is suffering from, cause it certainly was no skin-cancer. Even though the parents went with him to a specialized skin-clinic in Phnom Penh in the past, they never received a proper diagnose nor any proper help.

So with help of my friend Ruben, who is a practicing doctor in Germany, I got a initial picture diagnose together which then 2 traveling dutch doctors, who visited our school, confirmed. Sokhav has "Ichthyosis congenita" which is a genetic imperfection, where the body can not hydrate or fatten the skin itself, so the outer-layer of the skin creates a "Elephant skin". As it is genetic it is also not curable, but by knowing what he actually has, I set off on researching what can be done to improve his life-quality. Unfortunately there is not much experience nor any studies available on Ichthyosis as it is not yet properly researched. Nevertheless with the help of Ruben and some references in the internet, I put together a plan on how to help Sokhav and ease his skin-problem. That's where the whole challenge started !!

Part of the "therapy" is a very time consuming daily routine where Sokhav has to manually hydrate and fatten his skin. But if done consequently and over a long time the results are very promising. 
To start the therapy off, we needed a proper creme which is fattening Sokhavs skin and in huge-amounts as he needs to completely cover his body at least 4 times a day with it. The creme would be something you will get in any Pharmacy in Germany, even at "Aldi" as we found out - but not so in Cambodia !! And I mean all Cambodia !!! I was searching about every Pharmacy in Banlung, I had people check with big Pharmacies in Phnom Penh, I went to the local hospital, to many local shops that sell skin products, approached basically any big pharmaceutical company I know, searched the local Banlung market, I even got in touch with 3 big children NGOs which all have a health department but the only feedback I got everywhere was: "We don't have such a creme and you won't find this in big amounts in Cambodia". While it is super easy to find here all sorts of make-up or skin-whitener a normal fattening creme containing "Urea and Glycerin" and not containing perfume or alcohol is basically impossible. As the end of my time here is approaching and we want to help this boy, we now settled for a regular creme which we can get in big amounts (as a major consideration is also that Sokhav has to be able to access the creme his life long, so sending packages from abroad is not an option either).

So next week we are kicking off the "therapy" with Sokhav hoping that over the next 3-4 months he will experience major improvements with his skin.... The enclosed example illustrate how Sokhav could improve if the therapy actually helps him and he is following a strict hydration and fattening regime.

Seeing Sokhav, makes me realize how lucky we, who are blessed with good health, are! And how we sometimes carelessly waste our good health: it is just way to easy to make that excuse not to exercise or depend on our health systems and medicine... but people like Sokhav never even have the chance to be healthy, cause if they would have it they would take it!!!

This leaves me to say a BIG THANK YOU to: 

- Ruben, who is the expert behind all this and without whom I could not have put this together.
- My parents, who have generously supported the therapy plan for Sokhav so we can set him up with the initial set of "tools", cremes and other necessities
- Shamim, who has supported me on getting in touch with big Pharmacy companies to get access to cremes. Of which GSK was the only real lead and seem to be the only company that is serious...

Cheers 
Joe

Thursday, March 29, 2012

Update....

Hi Everybody,

after several serious entries I think it is time for just a regular update of what actually is going on here. The last 3 weeks in Cambodia have started and somehow this stay is coming way to quick to an end. Whilst at times this place can be lonely, it has been more than great to live here. I can not mention this often enough, how much the people here make the difference.


The last weeks have been a bit of a roller coaster - while the "well-project" hit the ground full speed and I was busy with trying to find help for one of my students - my marathon project had to be put on break as I got a vocal-cord infection from the teaching. So I wasn't able to run for the last 3 weeks which is a major set-back in my training-plan and certainly annoyed me. But finger crossed - I will start running tomorrow morning again.

Well, there are 2 weeks left and still a lot to do, before I will move on to Vietnam where I will be traveling with a friend of mine, Chris, who just quit his job and got 3 months "off". We will travel for a month before I will embark on the big marathon-project in Singapore.

Enclosed some snapshots I took over the past couple of weeks. Cambodian Moto driving "art" (even though those are not the extreme cases, as those  always pass you when you don't have your camera ready) and a picture of mine documenting how desperately Cambodians want to be "white" while we want to have a sun-tan....

So long....
Joe

P.S.: A big thank you to my grandmothers neighbors Franziska and Genovefa who were moved by Rosicas story and gave money to help her re-financing her hearing aid.
 


Monday, March 26, 2012

A topic close to my heart...

A good 15 years ago I had a geography secondary school teacher called Mr. Neumann - who had traveled/lived in Papua New Guinea for some time. He taught us a lot about the effects of deforestation: global warming, flooding or expropriation of indigenous people. Based on that he taught us to be conscious how we use paper and wood. Back in those days, that was all good in theory but being 15 years old I guess I couldn't really relate... nor could I relate over the past 15 years until I came here. 

Traveling over the past 8 months through South-America I have seen a vast and lush continent mainly covered by jungle with stunning sights, amazing wildlife and eaten fruits in a variety I couldn't imagine before. Coming to Cambodia, I was expecting a similar environment, based on the similar climate. Living here in Banlung now since 2 months, talking to people who grew up here and having taken trips out in the deep country have shocked me properly. 

According to locals, Ratanakiri (approx. the same size like the German state "Schleswig Holstein") has been a province completely covered by jungle, but within the last 5 years the logging in this area has been so massive that all jungle is gone by now, completely clear-cutted by big corporations. There is not even anything anymore to rescue as you seem to not be able to find any jungle anymore. Ratanakiri has only one big national park left which supposingly is protected and a home to endangered animal species - but the Cambodian government just recently has sold 1/3 of the national park to a Chinese Investor Group to "invest". Even though logging is officially banned by the Cambodian government, in foresight of this event the Chinese corporation has already invested in heavy duty logging machinery and infrastructure (bridges and streets) so it will be easier to get to and from the new area.

It is just sad and I guess I am not telling anybody any news, but it is shocking to personally experiencing it. Experiences like the following: 

- Wherever in Ratanakiri you drive, it really does not matter if you stay on the main road or travel 3 hours into the complete wilderness, all you see is Rubber-Tree-Plantations or Cashew-Nut-Plantations. If you drive through this armada of 2 types of trees it is completely silent - which feels weird being in a "forest". There are no birds anymore around nor any other animals - therefore no noises - all gone. 

- At every corner you see land burning. Logging is only going after the valuable trees in the jungle (for example Mahagoni - one tree of decent size is worth several hundred dollars) - all mid-sized trees are not interesting and left behind... but then building the plantations people are burning down the left-overs of the jungle as it is the easiest and most cost efficient way to get rid of the remainders of the jungle, as well as the ashes are actually a good fertilizer. 

- If you talk to indigenous people, they actually are facing a difficult time as they are mainly illiterate and all they learned growing up is handcraft as well as living in a forest. Means hunting, farming on a small scale and fishing. Now with the forest gone - there is no hunting anymore and farming only on big scale. There are actually indigenous people around 30 years old which were still hunting Tigers in their young years. 
 
- Young children here in the school I am teaching are choosing to talk about "deforestation" in public speaking contests as they realize that it is changing their environment and they want to stop it. 

I don't write this blog-entry trying to change anything, cause I certainly know it won't. But having this matter "in your face" makes you think about the effects of Globalization - driving through the country side here feels a bit like "earth is bleeding" and we are causing it. I know this sounds very melodramatic and naive. And I don't claim that I am not part of the cause for this by traveling around the world and having grown up in a industrialized nation. 



A friend of mine told me 6 months ago "Earth is Paradise, we people are just not realizing it". Since then this sentence comes to my mind every-time I see a magnificent natural sight - but unfortunately also when I witness how we carelessly destroy it.

Saturday, March 17, 2012

The first 2 wells are built !!!


About a month ago I reached out to my friends trying to find support (3000 US$) to have 3 wells in indigenous communities build (see one of the former blog-entries for more details) and the response was overwhelming. With the support of the donation-matching-program of my former employer Deutsche Bank we now got a staggering 13,000 US$ together. This will enable us to build 7 wells in indigenous communities providing over 4,200 people with direct access to water. Furthermore we will be able to ensure the maintenance of the wells and support a school-building project from UWS (more to that in the future).

With the donations coming in we started building the first 2 wells in the 'Tien' and 'Jong' communities last week with finishing both of them on Friday. I have visited the 'Tien' site and impressive what work has been achieved there. The well has been dug 23 meters deep, by handcraft in a claustrophobic 1,5 meter radius hole. The air down their apparently is super thin and the constant fear of being buried alive is present, certainly nothing for people with weak nerves. Seeing though the people using the well once it was finished is certainly worth it. The build of an additional 2 wells will be started this Monday and the remainder being done in May when the donations through the DB matching program are coming through.

It is hard to explain how this response made me feel and I guess 'humbling' is the only word that comes to my mind. Therefore I want to say a true and big THANK YOU to everybody who supported this effort and offered their help. To be able to witness on the behalf of all the donors the impact of providing people with something so basic and essential as water is simply moving.


I will provide more updates as this little "project" continues but enclosed some pictures to get an impression: 
23 meters down - 1,5 meter wide
The "building site" - there is a
man down there
!



Tuesday, March 13, 2012

Break from Banlung....

After 2 months being here in Banlung I took a break for the last 1.5 weeks of this remote city to see more of Cambodia, visit two friends weddings and go to Thailand to meet my dear friend Tim. I will spare you the details of the Cambodian weddings number 7 and 8 (it seems like I will be able to attend more weddings within the 3 months I am here than in the whole 30 years before that :-)) but attached some pictures so you can get an impression.
The wedding ceremony is traditionally hold in the living room of the brides parents house so the set-up is quite small... and yes in one of the pictures it was time for me to get dressed up as a groom - but no worries I didn't get married :-). A good experience but after 8 Cambodian weddings I think I am through with the topic as all of them are exactly the same scheme, same food and even the groom and bride outfits seem to be standardized throughout Cambodia... which makes the weddings quite monoton :-)

I then visited my directors family and the number 1 attraction in Cambodia - Angkor Wat... a truly amazing sight this is and the temple complex is huge so that you can easily spend 2 days just wondering around seeing all temples... at the same time I experienced great Cambodian hospitality from my directors family who were just amazing.



 After Siem Reap I took a bus to Bangkok to meet up with my friend Tim and enjoy some days off back in "civilization". That sounds more drastic than it is - but it was nice to be able to sit down, have a coffee, read a newspaper, going out partying etc.

Updates on the wells will follow soon !!!